Introduction to Ice Climbing Course (ALPI 2)

The PirineoSur mountaineering pathway

• ALPI 1: introduction to snow terrain, ice axe and crampons for ascents and straightforward snow couloirs.
• ALPI 2: introduction to ice climbing, for those who have completed ALPI 1 or have mountaineering experience.
• ALPI 2+: ice climbing and multi-pitch icefalls, for those who have completed ALPI 1 or have mountaineering experience.
• ALPI 3: ice and mixed climbing, for those who have completed ALPI 2 or have mountaineering experience.

ALPI 2 aims and prerequisites

The aim is to develop independence on icefalls and reinforce mountaineering and risk-management knowledge.

You need good physical condition and must have completed ALPI 1, or lead rock routes at grade IV and have experience in an ice couloir of 60–70° (AD). Contact us if you have questions so that we can recommend the programme best suited to your interests and experience.

Technical training

Basic movement on ice

• Step cutting for ascent and descent.
• All-points crampon technique, ascending and descending.
• Front-pointing with one ice axe, ascending and descending.
• Two-tool traction technique.

Protection and rope work

• Specialised knots.
• Ice anchors and natural anchors.
• Rope belay systems and quick protection.
• Setting up belay stations.
• Roped progression using half ropes.
• Moving together.
• Abseiling.

Mountain risk management and environment

• Snow and safety, level 2: planning an approach route with attention to hazards.
• Ice formation.
• Types of ice.

Logistics and equipment

• Difficulty grading.
• Mountaineering route descriptions and topos.
• Specific clothing and equipment.

What to bring

• Waterproof jacket and trousers, such as Gore-Tex or equivalent.
• Trekking trousers, fleece and an insulated synthetic or down jacket.
• Thermal base layer.
• Rigid or semi-rigid mountaineering boots; compulsory.
• Gloves and a spare pair.
• Warm hat, cap, sunglasses and ski goggles.
• 30- to 45-litre backpack.
• Two technical ice tools and at least semi-automatic crampons.
• Helmet, harness and personal anchor tether.
• Sun protection.
• Food for the practical outings and 1.5 litres of water.

Equipment we can lend you

• Ice axe and crampons.
• Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe.
• Helmet.
• Harness.

Contact us to arrange the equipment you need.

Included

• Two full days with a qualified high-mountain sports technician.
• Technical ice axes, technical crampons, helmet and harness, if you do not have your own.
• Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe, if you do not have your own.
• Initial assistance insurance.
• Civil liability insurance.
• Photographs and video of the course.
• Technical advice.

Not included

• Accommodation and meals.
• Rigid or semi-rigid boots, which are compulsory.
• Transport.

Area and timetable

The programme takes place in the Aragonese Pyrenees, with Jaca as our base and access to classroom facilities. We use the Aragón, Tena or Pineta valley according to snow and ice conditions.

On Saturday, meet at 08:00 at our Jaca office or the agreed meeting point, then travel to the practice area. On Sunday, meet at 08:00 at the office or agreed meeting point; the course finishes at approximately 15:00.

Day 1: basic ice movement skills

• Cut steps for ascent and descent.
• All-points crampon technique on ice, ascending and descending.
• Front-pointing with one ice axe, ascending and descending.
• Ice-tool traction technique with two tools.

Day 1: protection on ice

• Ice anchors.
• Rope belay systems.
• Quick protection techniques.
• Setting up belay stations.
• Roped progression using a half-rope system.
• Abseiling.

Day 2: waterfall ice climbing

Climb icefalls in a practice area selected according to conditions and the participants’ abilities, applying the techniques covered on the first day.