"Monte Rosa Route - Light"

Included

• Five days with a high mountain guide.
• Mountain hut booking arrangements.
• Shared safety equipment, including ropes and anchoring systems.
• Technical equipment from the general information list that you do not own.

Not included

• Your accommodation and meal expenses.
• Return travel to Zermatt.
• Local transfers to the activity starting points.
• Assistance and rescue insurance; contact us for details.
• Cable cars or trains used to access the mountains.
• The guide’s accommodation, hut meals and cable-car expenses.
• Allow €600 per person for these expenses.
• Download the technical information sheet.

Clothing and equipment

Clothing

• Gore-Tex or equivalent waterproof jacket and overtrousers.
• Technical mountain trousers in Schoeller fabric or equivalent.
• Fleece or softshell jacket.
• Thermal base layer and a spare.
• Thin and thick socks, plus spares.
• Gloves and a spare pair.
• Warm hat, sun cap, sunglasses and ski goggles.
• Headtorch with spare batteries and, if needed, a spare bulb.
• Sun protection for face and lips, and after-sun lotion.

Technical equipment

• Harness and 2 HMS locking carabiners.
• Ice axe and crampons with anti-balling plates.
• Telescopic ski poles.
• Helmet.
• 45–60 litre backpack.
• Water bottle of at least 1.5 litres and electrolyte salts.

Footwear

• Rigid-soled mountaineering boots and gaiters.

Personal first-aid kit

• Pain relief medication.
• Anti-inflammatory medication.
• Anti-diarrhoeal medication.
• Antibiotic and anti-inflammatory ointment.
• Antiseptic.
• Gauze, medical tape, plasters and bandages.
• Mineral salts for drinking water.
• Sunscreen.
• Lip protection.
• If you need to wear glasses or contact lenses during the activity, bring a suitable way to prevent losing them.

PirineoSur.es can provide

• Any technical equipment on the list that you do not own and request in advance.
• Download the technical information sheet.

Mountain experience, good fitness, basic scrambling skills and basic crampon technique for glacier walking are required.

Long Alpine days require strong endurance. Altitude, successive days of activity, wind and low temperatures can increase fatigue and difficulty. Read the full programme and ask us if you are unsure about the required level.

Prepare with endurance exercise and mountain walks, using a loaded backpack and the boots and equipment intended for the trip. Break in new boots beforehand. Previous long mountain days, ideally including a 3,000 m summit in the Pyrenees, are useful preparation. You must be comfortable with exposed terrain and heights. An assessment outing with one of our guides can help confirm whether the route suits you.

Download the technical information sheet (Spanish)

Outline itinerary

Day 0: Meet from 18:00 at the station café in Täsch, or at another point agreed when booking.

Day 1: Klein Matterhorn – Mezzalama hut. The lift takes us to 3,883 m for the ascent of Breithorn (4,167 m), approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Descend towards Pollux and Guide d’Ayas hut, then continue off the snow to Mezzalama hut (3,036 m) for the night.

Day 2: Mezzalama – Staffal. Descend to Alpe di Verra (2,400 m), climb to Colle di Bettolina (3,100 m) and continue to Colle Bettaforca (2,672 m). Take the Sant’Anna chairlift or walk down to Staffal in the Gressoney Valley.

Day 3: Staffal – Gnifetti hut. After a shower and rest, take the Gabiet gondola and the lift to Salati (2,980 m), then walk to Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m).

Day 4: Gnifetti – Margherita hut. Follow the Lys Glacier towards Piramide Vincent (4,215 m), continue to Ludwigshöhe (4,341 m), then reach Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti (4,554 m), with Margherita hut on its summit.

Day 5: Margherita – Zermatt – Täsch. Climb Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) early in the morning, then descend the Grenz Glacier to Rotenboden station. Take the train to Zermatt and continue by train to Täsch.

Ask us for the detailed information sheet.

Further information

Level 1 Alpine ascents

This progressive programme combines guided ascents with technical coaching. Acclimatisation and practice are built into the itinerary to help you develop your skills and prepare for the planned summits.

We follow normal routes that offer a strong sense of adventure. They require some mountain experience, good fitness and familiarity with technical equipment: you should be able to put on crampons and a harness and tie in independently. Previous experience on a 3,000-metre Pyrenean peak is a useful starting point; ask us about preparation courses.

The guide’s role

Participants need sufficient fitness and technical ability to move independently under the guide’s supervision. One high mountain guide accompanies one or two participants, provides daily instructions and adapts the activity to conditions and safety considerations.

PirineoSur works with highly qualified professionals with extensive high mountain experience and more than 30 years of guiding in the Alps. Their qualifications meet the relevant requirements in Alpine countries, including France, Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland.

A guide helps manage the risks so you can make the most of your trip, but no mountain activity is entirely risk-free.

Download the information sheet